Starting with your pattern, draw a vertical line from shoulder to hem. This line needs to cut through the bust point or it can be inside it a bit, towards the center, but you do not want it on the outside of your bust point. Placing the overlay beyond the bust point creates a wingy effect and draws unnecessary attention to your nursing shirt (unless you're an exhibitionist and love people looking at your chest, in which case, wing away!). Your pattern should look something like this:
Your overlay doesn't have to be perfectly straight up and down. It can be wider at the shoulder edge and taper to the waistline or the other way around, if you'd rather. One dress that works well for me is about an inch wider across the shoulder line than it is at the waist. I also have a shirt that's 100% straight and it's fine, too. If you're designing this out of a woven, you'll want to be careful with the angled overlay, since the edge is cut on the bias and will stretch as it's handled and sewn.
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