Thursday, February 18, 2010

Twinset Style, part 2

Finish the neckline of your underlay. If you're using ribbing, cut it to 2/3 the length of your neckline and apply it normally. Hem the underlay.

Seam the shoulders of the back and the jacket front. You can serge the neck edge, fold it over and topstitch it down if you want. I have a rayon dress made this way and it's worn well, despite my worries about fraying.

If you're using a facing for the jacket, seam the pieces together and attach them to the jacket. If you haven't ever done this before, consult a good basic sewing book, like Readers Digest or Better Homes and Gardens. It's a little too complex for me to go into with my little Paint diagrams. Turn the facing and topstitch if you're in the mood.

Flip your jacket inside out and place the right side of the underlay on the wrong side of the jacket front. Match the shoulders at the armscye and stitch the shoulder seam.
You'll want to pin the sideseams together. Do you want to tuck your underlay in or leave it untucked? You'll stitch the sideseams differently, depending on what you want. For the tucked-in style, your sideseams are only going to be attached for a few inches, like so:
If your underlay will be untucked, then just stitch the entire sideseam closed.

Now hem the jacket. Attach a frog closure or sew a button through the two jacket fronts. Now you can attach your sleeves and hem them and you're all done!

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