Your first step is to finish the center edge of the underlay. If you're using a knit, I highly recommend stabilizing this edge with clear elastic. It has excellent recovery and will keep your shirt from stretching out, which is impressive considering how many times you're going to yank at it over the course of its shirt-ish lifetime. You can either serge the clear elastic on or use the three-step zigzag on your sewing machine. Don't stretch the elastic while you're applying it -- your goal is not a gathered edge, just one that snaps back into shape.
If you're using a zipper down the center, apply it now, making sure that the tab is to the right side of the shirt and that the zipper closes with the tab at the waist side of things. I used the centered application like on the zipper packaging, but you can use an invisible zipper if you prefer. It's your shirt -- do what you'll like!
Hem the side edges of your overlay. I serged the edges of mine before folding and stitching, but you can turn a small double hem if you prefer.
Now you can line up the overlay with the underlay and pin them together at the neckline and hem. Baste along the neck, shoulder and hems where they are connected.
Finally, measure down from your shoulder to choose where you want your nursing opening to start. I start mine about where my bra strap meets the top of the cup. I usually unhook my bra through the nursing opening, not the neckline, so this works well for me. Mark this spot on your shirt with a pin and stitch (regular stitch length -- you're not basting this) from the shoulder to the nursing opening. If you have a good idea how long you need your nursing opening, you can also stitch the bottom. I prefer to wait until the shirt is finished, try it on and see how much room I'll need before committing to the lower stitching.
Now the hard stuff is out of the way and you can construct your shirt following the pattern instructions.
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